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by Phil @ Delfryn Design

Days Out in Snowdonia: Parks, Gardens and Woodlands

With its mile upon mile of scrubland, farmland, mountains and rugged coast, you might think that Snowdonia is an untamed wilderness. While this may be true of many of the region’s open spaces, Snowdonia is also home to a number of well-tended parks, gardens and woodlands, many of which are open to the public.

From formal gardens and pristine parks to nature gardens and managed forests, Snowdonia’s managed open spaces offer something for everyone, and in many cases provide a fascinating glimpse into the region’s past; indeed, many of Snowdonia’s historic houses and castles are just as famous for their gardens as they are for their architecture.

1. Portmeirion

A triumphant experiment in creating man-made beauty in a setting already made beautiful by nature, Portmeirion’s acres of formal gardens and managed woodland meld effortlessly into the rocky backdrop of a site carved out of the landscape by the elements over millions of years. Ponds, fountains, exotic plants and to-die-for views across a wide, sandy estuary add to the photogenic brilliance of Sir Clough Williams-Ellis’ Italianate architecture, making Portmeirion one of Snowdonia’s favourite visitor attractions.

2. Brondanw Estate

The historic home of Portmeirion’s creator Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, Brondanw is one of Snowdonia’s best-kept secrets. Entering the gardens is like stepping into the pages of Alice in Wonderland; formal topiaries, lawns and avenues of trees sit alongside wild woodlands and a rocky outcrop topped with a ruined lookout tower. Meticulously and sympathetically designed (like Portmeirion) to slot into the Snowdonia landscape and look as if it’s always been there, the whimsical, fairytale feel of Brondanw is absolutely delightful.

3. Parc Glynllifon

Another site with a rather whimsical feel, Parc Glynllifon has a bit of everything; a historic mansion with a restaurant serving oh-so-British cream teas; peaceful forests where all you’ll hear is the rustling of leaves and endless birdsong; Victorian follies including a little pond-side hermitage; and a contemporary slate amphitheatre with a shallow river running through its middle, separating the stage from the audience in a way that children in particular seem to find satisfying.

4. Bodnant Garden

Sitting above the River Conwy in 80 acres of grounds, Bodnant Garden is one of the UK’s most beautiful gardens and one of Snowdonia’s best-loved attractions. The garden is split into two parts; terraced gardens with informal lawns, and a wild garden set in a river valley. Bodnant is planted with exotic plants from all over the world, particularly Chinese and Japanese plants which are well suited to Snowdonia’s climate.

5. Coed Y Brenin

Coed Y Brenin, in the south of the Snowdonia region, is a vast forest that’s ideal for mountain biking and walking. Routes are waymarked so it’s easy to find the one that’s most suited to your party’s abilities, and there’s a wonderful tiered children’s play area to keep your little ones happy.

6. Conwy Valley Maze

Conwy Valley Maze is the world’s largest garden maze, covering over two acres. The maze is constructed from English Yew, and uniquely contains themed gardens including a rose garden planted with 200 roses, a Japanese Zen garden, tropical garden and butterfly garden. The maze is open for most of the year, but may close during bad weather – call 01492 660 900 before you visit, to avoid disappointment.

7. Plas Tan Y Bwlch Gardens

Picturesque 13-acre Victorian garden in the Vale of Ffestiniog. Plas Tan Y Bwlch is a large Victorian mansion used as a training and study centre, with largely wooded gardens open to the public for free. Wonderful sweeping lawns and ornamental pond, a variety of rhododendrons and azaleas, and a beautiful water garden combine to make Plas Tan Y Bwlch a great spot for peace, tranquillity and wildlife watching.

8. Plas Yn Rhiw

Plas Yn Rhiw is a small 16th century manor house on the Llyn Peninsula, with ornamental gardens and spectacular views across Cardigan Bay. Rescued from neglect in 1938 by three sisters, who lovingly restored Plas Yn Rhiw and then donated it to the National Trust who continue to care for the property today.

9. Gwydir Castle

Allegedly one of the most haunted houses in Wales, Gwydir Castle is a Tudor courtyard house set in historic gardens incorporating 16th century arches and walls. Gwydir’s gardens are among a very small number of gardens in Wales with Grade I Listed status, and a fine example of Tudor and Stuart formal gardens – complete with peacocks.

10. Penrhyn Castle

Penrhyn Castle is a 19th century, neo-Norman castellated mansion set in 60 acres of beautiful grounds. Parkland, a Victorian walled garden, exotic trees and shrubs together make this one of the region’s most popular gardens – but of course the house itself, the priceless art collection, the railway museum and doll museum also contribute to Penrhyn’s popularity.

by Daniel Greene

Time Travelling In North Wales: Historic Sites To Visit In Snowdonia

There’s no escaping history when you visit Snowdonia. It’s everywhere you turn. From Iron Age burial chambers and Roman forts to medieval castles and Victorian follies, Snowdonia’s mountains and coast are awash with history.

Some of the oldest historic structures that you can visit in Snowdonia today were built in prehistoric times. There are many prehistoric standing stones in the region, as well as a number of burial chambers and hill forts. Worth a visit are the standing stones in the hills around Harlech, as are the Bachwen burial chamber at Clynnog Fawr and the remains of a prehistoric hill fort at Dinas Dinlle. But arguably the most awesome prehistoric site in Snowdonia is Tre’r Ceiri, a huge Iron Age settlement on the Llyn Peninsula, where a 30-minute upward trek reveals the remains of 150 stone huts and a huge rampart, all on the slopes of Yr Eifl overlooking the Irish Sea 400 feet below.

The Romans left their mark on Snowdonia, too. After overthrowing local inhabitants and occupying their settlements, the Romans built their own formidable fort – Segontium – on the outskirts of modern-day Caernarfon. This fascinating site – one of Britain’s best-known Roman remains – is open to the public along with a museum displaying finds from the fort.

Snowdonia was a hive of activity during the days of the early Celtic Christian church. Many important Celtic religious sites were established in Snowdonia during the 6th and 7th centuries, including monasteries, churches and abbeys. Bangor Cathedral’s origins can be traced back to this era, while the little island of Bardsey off the Llyn Peninsula was home to a Celtic monastery and became an important religious site, where it is said that 20,000 saints are buried. Three pilgrimages to Bardsey equalled one to Rome, and key points along the pilgrims’ route can still be visited today – as can Bardsey itself, which is accessible by boat from Aberdaron at the tip of the Llyn Peninsula.

During the Middle Ages the English king Edward I built a number of castles and walled towns across North Wales to subdue the Welsh, and many of these survive today – mostly in excellent condition. Caernarfon and Conwy castles and their town walls (UNESCO World Heritage sites) are beautifully preserved, while Harlech Castle, perched high on a cliff-edge, has been described as “the definitive Welsh castle”. But it’s not just Edward’s castles that survive; there are Welsh castles too, like Dolwyddelan and Criccieth, which are just as impressive.

But castles aren’t the only medieval buildings still standing in Snowdonia. You’ll see many medieval houses, bridges, churches and other structures in the region, too. Like Ty Hyll, just outside Betws-y-Coed – a cottage which according to legend was built in one night. And the lonely church of St Baglan at Llanfaglan, just outside Caernarfon, with an ancient holy well nearby.

The towns, villages and open countryside of Snowdonia Mountains and Coast are dotted with Tudor and Elizabethan buildings, from modest cottages and farmhouses to elaborate halls and castellated mansions. Two of the best examples can be found in Conwy. Aberconwy House, a merchant’s townhouse now owned and managed by the National Trust, dates predominantly from the 16th century, although parts of the building are a few hundred years older; while at the nearby Elizabethan mansion Plas Mawr – one of Britain’s finest examples of the period – you’ll see some beautiful restored and painted plasterwork.

At Glynllifon Country Park, just outside Caernarfon, there have been several large and important houses over the centuries. The present mansion was built in the early Victorian period, amidst beautiful grounds which include peaceful woodland walks, follies, an old hermitage and a modern slate amphitheatre where you may be lucky enough to catch an open-air concert or play. And there are many other fine examples of 19th century architecture around Snowdonia, like Penrhyn Castle near Bangor and Bryn Bras Castle just outside Caernarfon.

But Snowdonia’s historic sites can also have very modern origins. We tend not to think of 20th century buildings as ‘historic’, and yet Portmeirion Village is just that. Portmeirion – the setting for the 1960s TV series The Prisoner – mixes the old and the new to create one of the region’s most picturesque and popular attractions. Old buildings and ancient woodlands come together with 20th century creations that are traditional in design; new buildings incorporate antique architectural features – like the intricately carved Jacobean ceiling in the village’s Town Hall – and old structures have been lovingly restored. In building Portmeirion, the village’s creator – Sir Clough Williams-Ellis – clearly achieved his aim to “develop even a very beautiful site without defiling it”, and proved his philosophy that “given sufficient loving care one could even improve on what God had provided”.

Inspired by Catherine Nemeth Frumerman’s book, On The Trail Of The Prisoner, I recorded this guide to Portmeirion’s Prisoner filming locations while staying in Portmeirion. Shot in 1966 and 1967, this classic series made good use of the quirky architecture of the unusual hotel as ‘The Village’.

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